E RICKSHAW ASSEMBLY 1

Hey, everyone. I'm Dustin, CEO of sixthreezero, and today we're going to do the assembly on our EVRYjourney Electric Bike Rickshaw. We have the box right here, so we're going to take you step by step from the unboxing to the completion of the assembly so you can see all along the way how to build your new Rickshaw.

Now, it's a large box. It's going to be showing up to you LTL on a truck, usually with a lift gate, and it'll be on a pallet just like this, or sometimes it will have feet attached to the bottom of the box to turn it into its pallet. The weight of this box alone is 160 pounds. And I was going to give you some dimensions of the box here as well. It's 69 inches long by 35 inches wide, and also 31 inches tall. So again, a very large box. If you're home when this gets delivered, probably in your best interest to ask them to pallet the jacket into your garage, wherever you'd like this to go.

Once you get the actual tricycle out of the box, it'll be a lot easier to move because you can use it on the wheels and pull it and take it to where you may want to build it. So a large box, with lots of packaging. So let's dive right into it.

Okay, first I have a box cutter here. If you have some snips, those will work well to also unbox it. You're going to want to get the strapping off right here, so you can just go ahead and cut these off. Be careful using your box cutter. So get those off of the box. And I'll come around here and cut this one as well. There we go. Okay, now the tops are going to be taped, so let's go ahead and remove all of that. Now we have to cut down the middle. So there are tapes. There's tape and staples on the top here, so be careful when opening the box. Be mindful of the staples. If you'd feel better, you can also remove the staples before opening the box but just be careful because these staples can sometimes stick out as well.

All right, so there's a box inside the box, so we've got another box in here as well. Now, this one doesn't have any tape, it's just stapled. Go ahead and pop this back. There we go. And now let's go ahead and give you a look inside the top of the box here.

Okay, so when you open the box, you'll have this protective foam on top. You can remove that. And we'll go ahead and just tuck that in down here for right now. Okay. Now, on top here, you can see you've got your Rickshaw seat right here, you have your fenders. Actually, a good idea probably would be to take this piece right here and lay this down on the ground, and then you can start placing some of your parts down on here. So there are your fenders. We have our seats right here. Go ahead and put that down here. And you're going to have this box of different parts in here. This will have your pedals, reflectors, and some other stuff. So we'll put that down here as well. And then now we have the seat. And this is not too heavy, so you can lift that out as well. And we will set that down right here.

Okay. Now, when you get all that stuff out, you can see the bike comes pretty much fully assembled. So from here, we have to remove the bike from the box, which I will show you how to do. And your front wheel comes attached to the frame here. So before I start removing anything, I'm going to cut that off, cut all the zip ties off so we can remove things easily. So the front wheel's zip-tied on, and the handlebars are zip-tied on. And then what I'm going to do is cut the front of the box to be able to take the bike out.

I've switched to a little snip device here. You can use a box cutter or a scissor, and I'm just going to go through and snip all the zip ties here. There are no parts attached that are loose. So let's see the handlebars bars. Now, the handlebars I think I will leave zip tied until I pull it out. So to make this easier, you'll want to take out... There's one more zip tie down here. So you'll want to snip that and then we can start removing the front tire.

Now we have the front tire, which is free, so I'm going to go ahead and remove that and we can set that aside anywhere you like. I'll go ahead and put it right here against our seat for right now. So now we have everything loose sitting out on our foam. Now, from here, we have to get the frame out of here. So what I'm going to do is, I'm going to cut the front of the box here. I'm just going to cut the box right here and be careful using your box cutter. And if you're going to cut up like me, just watch your hands. Okay. Now, there are two boxes, so we're going to have to go through two of these.

Now, I'm going to take this piece of foam and just put this here too so we have a place to roll the bike. There we go. Okay, now you can take the fork and just roll it right out. Pretty simple. From here, I'm just going to back this up. Oh, there we go. And we can put our fork down onto our foam. From here you can discard the box, cut it up, and do what you need to do. I'm going to move it out of the way so we can start the assembly process.

We've got everything laid out nicely. You can either leave the packaging on. Sometimes that's a good idea during the assembly process so things don't get damaged. So I'm going to selectively remove some packaging now just to make it a little bit easier. As I said, the handlebars were still zip-tied on, so I'm going to go ahead and remove the handlebars. So now they can move freely. And there's one... Sorry, not one. There's tape right here on this. Also, if you're using a box cutter to remove the tape, just be very careful not to scratch and just try to poke the tip of the blade under the tape just to get enough to remove the tape.

Okay. All right. Now I'm just going to insert the stem of the handlebar into the headset so we can get the handlebars out of the way. So we get those in here. We need to flip these like that. There we go. And there's some packaging. Oh no, that's actually from the headset. Okay. Now you can just insert that right here. Okay, now I believe there's a cap that goes on there. We can run back through that, but we've got that in there now. Handlebars are out of the way. Now I'm going to come in here and remove the packaging on everything on the fork because the first step that I like to do is getting the front wheel on. Once we get the front wheel on, this thing's going to be balanced and we don't have to worry about the fork or anything getting damaged while touching the ground. And I like to clean up my garbage along the way.

Now, again, I'm going to use my box cutter here on the fork. Be very careful not to scratch or poke the fork in any way when removing the tape here. Okay, so we got that free. Go ahead and pull this off. Okay. And now coming around right here. All right. Okay. So now, most of the... Oh, I didn't tighten that down yet. Okay. Now we removed that.

Okay, now, in the axle there actually is a bolt. Now this is the packaging. I'll go ahead and hold it up to the camera. It's a silver metal bolt. It's there to keep the fork from bending outward if it were to hit the ground or something. We're going to need to remove that. Now, you should be able to... You can lift this. It's pretty light. You should be able to, well, hand loosen it. So we are going to need a wrench to loosen that. So let me go ahead and get, I believe, a 15-millimeter wrench and we can remove that packaging. So I grabbed a 15-millimeter wrench. You're just going to put that on here and it just takes a very little turn to crack that bolt off and then do the other side. Okay, yeah. And we can now put the fork back down gently. And make sure that's resting on some packaging or foam or mat when you remove that.

So let me go ahead and show you what this looks like. It's an actual long bolt that goes through the axle, and it has nuts like you would find on a bike. And so you can just discard this. You won't need this for anything else. That's simply packaging. If you were ever going to travel with your Rickshaw, put it in some kind of an RV or a car or a large van or something. You could hold onto this if you were going to remove the front wheel to take it with you. But other than that, you'll have no use for it.

And right here, you have your light, which I'm just going to leave dangling for the time being, and we will attach that once we get the tire on. So just put that into a safe place. And now we'll move on to the front wheel installation.

So in preparation for installing the front wheel, I've removed all the washers and the axle nuts. You can see I've got them safely put down here. You're going to remove everything except the small inside washer right here. So that one is going to stay on the wheel. Now, if you can also see the axle here, it has a flat part here. You have to be mindful of that when putting the fork in. Now, you want the cable to stick up so you can connect it. So you need to have it in this position and then I'm going to bring it here. If you have a helper around, this is a good time to maybe ask for some help or you can do it on your own. But having somebody else lift the front end can generally help a little bit. Now, you can also go like this and lift it on like this.

And now, from here, you have to find the place. You kind of want to rest the fork on there. Now you can see it's settled in. Now, one thing is you have to make sure, if you come around to this side quickly, make sure the rotor from the disc brake is slipped inside the pads of the disc brake. So the calipers, you want the rotor in the middle. If you're having trouble getting the wheel on, it could either be hung up with the rotor not going in the middle of that, or it could be hung up with the fork position not correct. So you can see, by looking down here, we have found that flat part straight up into the fork.

Now, from here while we're down here, we can go ahead and connect the motor if we like. So if you see on here, there's an arrow pointing right here and there is an arrow pointing here. So when you connect these, you're going to want to match those two up like so and click that in, and now your front motor is connected. Okay, from here, we need to reassemble all of our washers. So first we're going to take our washer that has the little notch on it. That is going to go over the axle like so, so that notch fits into the fork opening down here, and that is going to be so it prevents the fork from shifting or moving. Then we will go ahead and put our washer on top of that and we'll now install our bolt. Put that on, put your washer on, and now install your bolt. And we'll need to use our half-inch and we'll do the same thing here on the other side. Go ahead and put our washer in right there. Make sure the notch is in. There it is. Put our washer on and just go ahead and hand tighten those as much as you can.

Okay. Now, from here, want to make sure your wheel is straight, so line up the center of your tread with the center of the fork. It should pretty much sit that way. There's not much play there. And then, from there, go ahead and tighten these down. I like to do a little bit on each side until I get it fully snug. So that's not all the way tight. It's going to go ahead and do this side first. And if you have a ratcheting wrench like I do, it makes this job quite a bit quicker and easier. Or a socket set would also do the trick. You may need some extended-length sockets though. Okay, now, from here, I'm going to go ahead and push this down a little, come back here. This side I'm pulling up. I could also go like this. Oops.

Now you want to get to the point where when you're giving it force, it won't go any tighter, but you don't want to crank down on this with your foot or anything. There, that's tight. That's not going anywhere. So now we have our front wheel fully installed and now everything's going to be a lot easier because it's balanced and it can't go anywhere.

Okay, now we're going to get the handlebars locked into position and then move on to the seat because, actually, in the current state, once we get the seat on and the pedals on, you could ride it. We don't have to get the passenger seat on, you don't have to get the fenders on. So if you're excited to just get out there riding, what I'm going to do is show you the process to get to the point of a working trike and then we'll add all of the accessories, if you will, the fenders and the seat on there.

Now, in this box right here, this is going to have your seat posted. This is the cap for the headset, which we're going to need right now. This is your charger in this box right here. We'll go ahead and set that to the side. Pedals. You also have some tools in here. I do recommend using your tools if you have them, but you have the Allen keys. You also have some zip ties and a little plug-looking device, which is going to be for the handlebars I'll show you in a second. So set that aside, don't lose it. You also have instructions on here to work on your disc brakes, replace your disc brakes, and how to fit the wheel on, and also some instructions for the display as well. And not in this video, but in some other videos, we will walk you through the display and how to use that as well.

Okay, let's go ahead and take our cap here. Now, the cap is going to go right on top like so. If you need to peel back the packaging a little bit, go ahead and do that. It's going to sit there. This is decorative. It's just to hide everything underneath. And it is possible we have to loosen... Nope. The top bolt, we don't. It should go right in. There we go. Now, the looser I get it, the easier this would go in. Okay. Now it's in there.

Now, from here, let's go ahead and remove this top packaging. And I just so happen to have my box cutter here. So let's go ahead and pull this. Be careful. And let's remember, cut away from yourself at all times if you can. Okay. Now we have that bolt-free right there.

Now, this bolt, as I've mentioned in other videos, is one of the most important bolts on the bike here. You want to make sure your handlebars are lined up straight with the wheel. If this is off-center, it's going to feel weird when you're steering. So line up the front to the middle of the tire and then go ahead and tighten down this bolt. And again, you want to get this as tight as you can get it, but not overtighten. Now handlebars are locked in place. And from there, we would move up to these two bolts behind the display here. So I'm going to go ahead and remove the packaging here as well. And there's our display. Go ahead and cut this off as well. All right.

Now, underneath the display here you can see we have two bolts. These are for the tilting of the handlebar. So if you want to find the ideal tilt for yourself, you're going to want to loosen those. Let me go ahead and just remove this packaging right here. Again, be careful. Your grips are under there. You don't want to tear those. And one more piece here. There we go. One more under here. Okay. Can unravel that. There are our breaks. And then, from here... I know there's a lot of packaging, but it is to ensure that your trike gets there in a safe condition. All right. Now we have our brakes, our shifter, our throttle. It's all revealed and we can find the tilt. Now, that tilt honestly doesn't look too bad to me. It looks pretty good, but let's go ahead and show you how to adjust it.

All right, to get to these two bolts, you have to shift your screen a little bit forward. Oh, and again, sorry, to loosen the bolts here and the handlebars, it is a six-millimeter Allen key. So let's go ahead and loosen that. And this Allen key does come in the box If you can get one with a handle like this, it does make it a little bit easier. So now that those are loose, you can find the position that you feel is best for you. I think that looks pretty good. And from there, also, you're going to see... If you can see from the front here, I'll show you, there are rivets in the handlebar. These want to be in the middle because that's what the stem clamps down onto. So make sure, if you can, you don't see any of those. Then from there, go ahead and get one of your bolts tight and then shift this back. And again, we want to make sure we tighten a little bit each time. Now, this is a very important bolt on the bike, so I recommend getting it to the point where you can't tighten it anymore. And then we can give it a little check test here. Let's go ahead and tighten that.

Okay, so on this adjustable stem, there actually is another adjustment point underneath here, and you can see, if we loosen that, because I noticed our bars were moving a little bit, so if we loosen this, now I can move the handlebar to some crazy positions. So it gives you a lot of customizable movement, but you need to make sure this bolt is tight as well. So I was noticing we had a little bit of give on ours and it is because of this bolt right here. So go ahead... And this is a five-millimeter Allen key. So go ahead and get your Allen key in there and let's just tighten that down. And again, we want to make sure that's as tight as it can go.

Okay, now, from there, you can see we got no give. It's nice and tight and we are ready to ride. I'm just going to give it one more tighten, one more check. Again, these four handlebar bolts are the most important bolts on the bike. You want to make sure those are tight. So I'm just going to come through here one more time and just double-check. Okay, I feel great about that. Now, from here, we can move on to seat installation.

Okay, you have a plug here as well. It's a little gray plug that came in that small box. This is used. It's a decorative piece, honestly. Put it in if you want or don't. It goes right in here. So you're just going to put it in here and it just covers up that bolt right here, so it makes it look a little prettier. Now our stem installation is complete. We'll move on to the seat.

We've got our seats right here. Let's go ahead and just take the packaging off. All right. All right, and we'll just put that right here. And now we have our seat post right here as well. Now, on the bottom of the seat post, because it is a suspension seat post, you have a nut on the bottom here, and this is used to adjust the amount of give that there is in the seat. So you can loosen or tighten that, depending on how much you want the seat to move up and down, totally up to you.

This is going to slide onto the rails here of your seat like so. So what we need to do is we're going to have to take this top piece off, set it on the top of the rails, and then tighten it all down. Okay, so I'm going to go ahead and remove this top part right here. And from there, now you're going to want to sit there like this. Now, there are little notches on there. You can see. That's where your rails need to sit. This is a good place to position it. Now you've got notches on this top piece as well. So you're going to fit that in here like so. And now that you have it in there, you're going to put your tightening nut on top. And what you can do is you can hold all the hardware with your hand like so. Get this right here. Oops, there we go.

And then, when I have that nut up against the bolt, I can take my Allen key and there's the bolt right here on top. And this is, again, a six millimeter and I can just start tightening that. Okay. And then, once you get it just tight enough where at least it's staying, then you can come in... So I have it in there. Now I can come in and do my full tight on the top here.

Okay, once you have it on there loose, you can play around with your angles. So I'm going to come over to the seat and I loosen the quick release here. So now we can slide the seat to post in. Oops. Okay, now from here, find the angle that works best for you. And let's see. There we go. Adjust that. So right about... I think that looks pretty flat, so go ahead and pull it out and then try not to move it. And then, from there, go ahead and tighten it down all the way. Let me just double-check this before I commit to that. That looks pretty good to me. It looks pretty flat.

Okay, now, this is also another really important bolt because if this doesn't get tight, it's possible that the seat can tilt and move while you're riding, and we don't want that to happen. So I'm going to go ahead and crank that down. This is the six-millimeter Allen key as well. Get that nice and tight. And from there, let's go ahead and put that back in. And there we go. The seat is in.

Now, on the quick release, you can find your desired height. You want to turn this side right here, the nut or the bolt. And actually, let's first get this repositioned. Okay. So you want this to be facing this direction. Can you hand tighten this screw-like so, as tight as you can? And then, see how that's pretty difficult for me? Clamp that all the way on. I have the seat crooked. Make sure the nose of your seat is lined up with your frame. Okay, that looks good. And now clamp that down and your seat should be nice and tight.

If it is loose, you can unlock it. Continue to hand tighten right here. Get that all the way tight and push that down. Now, you can see it did leave a little bit of a mark on my hand, so you can use a towel or something to protect your hand, but you want that to be tight because you don't want that seat to come loose while riding.

Okay, now, from there, we'll move on to the pedals here. Now, the pedals are a fairly straightforward process. On the inside of your pedal, I don't know if you can see this on camera, there are very small letters. There is an L on this one and an R on this one. So go ahead and switch those. This is our right pedal. Now, the thing about the pedals on a bike is they always tighten forward. So on the right pedal, it's going to be the typical right tidy, but on the left pedal, it's going to be lefty tidy because they always tighten forward. So you just screw those in, it's threaded and go ahead and get it as hand-tight as possible. And the same thing on this side, just repeating the process. And again, just get it as tight as you possibly can with your fingers like so. Okay, perfect.

Now, from there I'll just go ahead and take some more of this packaging off. And we can remove this. And now, it is a 15-millimeter wrench to tighten this down. So we have our 15-millimeter, pretty basic, just going to insert it here on the nut and go ahead and tighten until tight. And again, you want to give it a couple of really good cranks. So that's all the way. And the same thing right here. Let's go ahead and hold the back wheel. There we go. Okay, now that's tight. I feel good about it. You can also get the wrench in a position where you can... There we go. Perfect. So the pedals are on. Let's go ahead and remove this packaging from right here.

From here, you essentially have a fully usable, ready-to-go trike. Now, we haven't adjusted the gears or the brakes yet. Adjusting the brakes before you ride is essential. Don't go and ride without adjusting the brakes. We're going to get to that step shortly. But in essence, the bike can roll, the bike can move. It is fully operational.

Okay, now we're going to move on to the front fenders. And go ahead and open up your packaging and let's see which one is which. The front fender is going to have this little tab on the top here, and it is going to be installed right here. And you can see we have our nut already inside of the fork here. So I'm going to go ahead and take all the hardware off. So when you remove it, you have a washer, a little washer for the back and a bigger washer and the nut, and then your bolt and your washer for the front. There are two rivets on the top of the fender. I'm going to put those in the back. And on the light here, it's got some rivets that can grab the bolt. So I'm going to put the light in the front.

So what we're going to do is take this, put that through, put the... Don't get your cable caught in there. Okay, so now get that on. And then, coming around to the back here, I'm going to put on my big washer first and then I'm going to put my little washer on. There we go. Okay. And on that big washer, I put the curved side into the fork. And again, tighten as much as you can. This is a lock nut, so that's 10 millimeters. One's got to go on the backside to keep this tight and then one here on the front, and you're just going to have to tighten like so. And I'm going to wait until I get it a little bit tighter. It's a little tighter now, but I can adjust things where they're going to stay in place. Make sure your fender is in a good position, you don't want it on the wheel. That looks pretty good. So from there, go ahead and put this on. Oops, there we go. And just tighten. Okay, there we go. And just check, make sure that feels good. And that's all installed.

Now, you can see here on the light there's some play here. Now this has its own Allen key as well, so you may want to come in here and just make sure this bolt right here is tight. This is too big, but let's see. We need an actual smaller Allen key for that. But you just want to tighten this down to the point where it's not moving. Also, you can just get a wrench in there and tighten that in a little bit more. You don't want this flopping around while you ride. So that's good for right now.

Peter:

Hey, everyone. Peter here, sixthreezero. I'm going to show you today how to adjust the gears on your passenger e-trike. Now, it's a little bit different than a regular bike because it is heavy and it's probably going to have to stay on the ground. Normally we would adjust gears up in a stand or elevate somehow so that you can turn the rear wheels while you do this, but there's a little bit of a workaround you can do and we can get the gears adjusted that way. So the first thing I'm going to do though is we need to put this into seventh gear. So I'm going to take this for a little ride and then shift the gears up into seventh gear. Okay? Okay, there we go. So that's seven gears.

Before we install the rear passenger seat, we're going to go ahead and make some initial adjustments on the brakes and gears if needed. So now's a nice time to give a little test ride to the bike just by yourself and see how the brakes and gears feel. You can also test them before you head out, make sure that they're giving you a nice positive stopping feel right there. And then we can run through the gears.

Right now we will go ahead and show you how to adjust the brakes if you need to adjust these for the initial adjustment. It's always a good idea if you want to adjust these to... I would just take the passenger seat off. Makes it easier if you want to get to those later. But there are also some other things I can show you, later on, to make some little adjustments as you need some modifications as time goes on with the passenger seat on. It's not that hard to access the gears, especially with the seat on, but the brakes are much easier to do with the seat off. So let's go ahead and get into that.

I'm going to go ahead and show you how to do the rear. There are three disc brakes on this bike. Of course, there's one in the front and then there are two in the rear. One for each wheel. So the right lever operates two calipers here in the back for the disc brake. The first thing we're going to do is we'll come over here and all we need is a five-millimeter Allen wrench.

We're going to adjust the brakes now. What I've done is I went ahead since there are two brakes activated by the one lever, I went ahead actually and detached this caliper just by opening the cable pinch bolt right here. And so this cable is loose, and so this cable is free and it's not going to be activated by the brake lever. So I'll just be working on this one to start with. So I'll just make sure... Because that lets me know that when I pull the brake lever, how it feels just for this guy.

We've got these two bolts here that hold the caliper in its alignment. So we need to loosen those because we're going to go ahead and align it. And we need to let the caliper be a little bit loose. So just a little bit of loosening on those bolts and then that lets the caliper be free to move how it wants to. And then what I'm going to do is come in and look at the clearance of the rotor, and it should be pretty close. And then you can also tell by the feel of the lever if it has good tightness.

So I'm looking at it right here and I'm just looking for a little bit of daylight between the rotor and the caliper. And then what we want to feel with the lever here is that when it's tight it will start to stop about halfway through the pole. So we'll be able to go a little bit farther than that. So maybe I'm going to tighten these pads a little bit more, and that's by adjusting this one pad on this side. So now I have just a little bit of clearance, which is great.

And then, by referencing, seeing the daylight for the clearance between the brake pad and the rotor, I'm going to hold the rotor in that position and try not to get in the shot here. And then we'll just go ahead and tighten those adjustment bolts down to lock in the alignment. These bolts require Newton meters, and you want to make sure that they are very firmly tightened down. So that's your alignment. And then, of course, you can pick the wheel up and see how it goes. This one's rubbing just a little bit, so I'm going to just adjust a little bit over here. Now loosen this pad just a touch and then you can see it's going perfectly.

Okay, so this process for the left brake is going to be the same. I went ahead and left the adjustment on the right brake. So we're going to go ahead and reattach the cable at the pinch bolt. I'm going to re-secure that and make sure that's nice and tight. And then this one is upside down, but it's the same process. We're going to go ahead and loosen the two adjustment bolts. Now it's upside down, so remember that your clockwise and counterclockwise can be confusing. And then here... Because when you're looking at the behind the bolt, the directions are opposite. There it is.

Then I loosened the adjustment bolts. Now the caliper is free to move like this, and then I'll come into the pad adjuster. Again, going to adjust for the clearance, which is done mostly by sight, and then we can also tell by feel. You can see how much wiggle room there still is. This one pads out a bit. Yeah, that's pretty good right there. Or another way you can tighten it all the way down and just back it off a little bit. There we go. And then I'm going to align the pads with the rotor and go ahead and tighten down those adjustment bolts. It may take a couple of tries to get the exact alignment you need, and sometimes you can just have one alignment bolt loose. If you want to see how I have tightened down the rear one and this one, I can still move it a little bit while I'm still tightening down. And then I'm going to go ahead and use the real business end of the Allen key here to tighten that down to that eight-newton meters.

Obviously, if you have some way of maybe seeing under here, getting underneath that, it's easier, but I'll show you how to do it, or else just sitting on the ground. There we go. Sign in the way.

Okay, the last step before a little test ride, go ahead and get the lever feel. Again, you want it to be giving you resistance about halfway to the grip. If your lever's coming all the way to the grip, your brake is way too loose. You want it to be tight enough that when you pull it's going to give you a lot of resistance there about midway and then you're never going to be able to squeeze it all the way to the grip. And then, if you can also pick up one wheel of time and make sure that the rotors are clearing the calipers. So if you've got that, they are running freely and then the tightness felt at the brake lever is good, then you are done. Then the last step, of course, we'll take it for a little test ride.

Maybe don't put on the electricity, the electric power for that, just ride it as a regular bike. While you're testing the brakes out, make sure that the brakes are perfect. It's probably the most important part of the bike.

Now, for the front, we're going to do the front disc brake. It's relatively easier, but I have to recommend one thing, which is to adjust the pad tightness and the clearance. I would get an Allen wrench with the ball end, and I'll show you why.

We're going to do the same thing as the rear brakes. This one is interesting though because we have the motor here in the front wheel. So it's something that we have to contend with when we are adjusting the clearance of the brake pads. What I'm doing here first is just loosening the adjustment bolts. They don't adjust anything, but they allow the caliper to be loose so that we can align it with the rotor. So we'll go ahead and get that aligned.

So before we do that, we get nice and loose and then I'm going to come in the back here. I'm going to jump around here. So we want to come back through here for the pad adjuster and access it through the motor hub. There are high and low parts of the hub for the spokes. And then, in these little valleys, you can roll it there so you can access it with your ball and the pad adjuster. And you can go ahead and run that in until it's tight, back it off a couple. And then, we'll come back around and we'll go ahead by sitting through the caliper as it's lining up with the rotor and then tighten down the adjustment bolts. Nice and firm, eight Newton meters. Okay. And then, just pick up the front of the bike, and then we're going to make sure we have the clearance that we want. It's pretty heavy with that motor there. And then check the lever fuel up here. Again, it should come to about halfway before it starts to give you resistance Right there.

All right, now that your brakes are perfectly adjusted, let's go ahead and before we have the passenger seat on, check your gears, and take it for a ride. You're going to make sure that your gears are great. If you feel like you need to do some adjusting, I'm going to show you how to run through the full adjustment of your gears with the seat off. And we're also going to do it on the ground because I don't expect anybody to have this elevated as you would normally do on a regular bike. So we can adjust the gears on the ground. There's a way to do it. So we'll go ahead and work on that. And then, once the passenger seat is installed, there are other smaller adjustments you can make, but what we're going to do right now is we're going to show you how to do a full tune on the gears.

Okay, just so you know, here's how you shift your gears. The little button down here will get you into a higher gear, and then the higher one up here will go to an easier gear. So the higher gear is when you're going faster, and it may feel a little harder until you get up to speed. The easier gears are slower, but they help you get started or go up hills.

So now we just rode the bike and put it into seventh gear. You can see it's in the smallest gear here, which is the high gear, that's the fast gear, is the little one. All right? So all the way over, that's the proper position for starting the derailleur adjustment. And then, if you do this properly, it's in the correct order, it's pretty easy. If you do it out of order, it's really hard to ever get it right.

Now, ideally, you would have a bike and a stand so that you can pedal the bike while you're making the adjustment. When I'm able to do that, I can adjust gears in about 45 seconds. But here on the ground, it's going to take a little bit of fiddling with, but it's still fairly easy.

All we need is a nine-millimeter socket or wrench and a Phillips. Okay, after we've got it in the seventh gear, which we already did. So the first step will be to loosen the cable. So that's the nine millimeters here. Just loosen that so the cable is loose, and now the derailleur is not connected to the shifter at all.

Okay, the next thing we want to do is this is called a barrel adjuster right here, and this is made for little micro-adjustments. We may need that later on. For the ground adjustment, you can see that if you turn it in the counterclockwise direction, you can see a little bit of silver coming up. That's pushing the cable housing away and will tighten the cable. I would go ahead and run the barrel adjuster all the way in so that the silver part that protrudes is going in. It's going to go all the way until it stops, and then maybe back it off just a little bit. That will give you some ability to adjust the gears just a little bit if you need to, in or out just a little bit.

Now, what we're going to do since we're on the ground and not able to do this by sound, usually I do it by listening to the gear chatter, which is how you're able to do it so quickly in a stand. But what we're going to do instead, we're going to do it by sight. So I want to line up the derailleur pulleys right here, perfectly vertically with the seventh gear. That's going to be our starting point. And to do that, I'm going to use the high-limit screw, which is this one right here. And what it's going to do if I turn that in clockwise and the tightening motion, it's going to push the derailer inwards and it's moving the derailer over this way. So we'll just do that until we have it perfectly vertically aligned. You can cite it from above and then also from the back. Let's see how it looks in the back here if this is... That looks nicely aligned.

So at this point, since the shifter up on the handlebars is in seventh gear, then the chain is also in the seventh gear, and the derailer is lined up with the seventh gear, everything is on the same page. And so now we can reattach the cable. It's a little hard. I'm trying to stay out of the way here. Tighten that down very firmly.

Now, at this point, since we're still staying on the ground, we're not able to pedal except by riding, we would have to go through the gears and we would shift through them. What you would do is just go into six gears first, just one click into six gears. If it doesn't go, a lot of times it won't because we need a little bit more tension on the cable, then we can go here to the barrel adjuster. And you can turn that counterclockwise and you'll see some of that silver protrude and it'll make the cable a little bit tighter and we'll bring it over into six more quickly. If you find that you need to use the barrel adjuster more than this much, I would move it back and then start and go back to step one and turn on the high-limit screw a little bit.

Okay, now, the low limit screw, all it does is limit the derailer from going past the first gear, which is the large one here on the inside. And so you can use the low limit screw right here to make sure that the derailer goes far enough to get into the first gear, but not so far that it falls off of the gear. So that one, you won't know until you go click one by one, seven, six, five, four, three, two. And then, when you try to go from two to one, sometimes it won't go in. That means that you need to go ahead and loosen the low-limit screw. If it's getting stuck in second, not going into first, but everything else works great, you can just back out this low-limit screw right here, just back it out a little bit. That will let the derailer go a little bit farther over into the first gear.

If the derailer is going too far, which usually isn't the case, you can set the low limit screw, you can turn it inward a little bit, and that will keep the derailer from going too far beyond first gear. So that's pretty much it in a nutshell. We have some other videos that might be helpful, but again, you probably won't be working with this in a stand or elevated position. If you are, it is much easier to adjust the gears while you're able to pedal the bike with your hands. So there you go.

Okay, when you have everything adjusted, if you find that things are getting just a little bit out of adjustment, we have a way to make minor adjustments without using tools. And these are barrel adjusters, which are in several places. I'll show you in just a second. Now, these are for making very, very minor changes to just improve the feel or the performance of your brakes and gears on a marginal level. If you need to use the barrel adjusters beyond a certain point, I'll show you what that is. You need to go back to step one and do a full tune-up of the brakes on your gears. Okay?

So first of all, there is a barrel adjuster on each brake lever here. And the way they work is, if you back it out, so here I am turning it in the counterclockwise or lefty loosey direction, it is tightening my cable. And then you can start to see threads emerge here. And then, when you get the tension you like, it will make the cable tighter actually when you're backing this out. And then you can lock that into a position like this. Now, with the barrel adjusters, people like to get lazy and use them too much, and they can continue to back these out as the pads wear in or the cables settle in, but there is a limit to the barrel adjuster. The barrel adjusters just for a minor adjustment.

I wouldn't back the threads out myself more than that much right there. It's about a quarter inch. If you need to back the barrel adjusters out more than that to make your adjustment, then you need to go back, run them in, and readjust your brakes down at the cable. But as I said, after you back it out to the position you like, you can go ahead and run in the lock nut right there to hold its position. Okay? I'm going to put this one back because this is about the right field right there. So run that one in. It's the same for this lever here. The barrel adjuster here operates the same way.

And then, if you want a little adjustment down here at the caliper itself, it also has one. It works the same way. These are... That's not too bad there. You can operate by your fingers, but you can see there's not a lot of thread here and you don't want to back it out too far. Also, this bolt itself is going to be put under a lot of pressure sometimes when you're operating the brakes. So you don't want to abuse the barrel adjuster. You just want to use it for just a very, very minor adjustment when you feel like you need to make a little tweak there. But I wouldn't use it to adjust my brakes. Something like this is just way too far. It's possible you could snap it. That's probably a dangerous situation. I wouldn't recommend that at all. I would say, with your barrel adjuster, just use it for making very, very minor adjustments like this. Very, very, very fine-tuning.

Anyway, we like how we had this one, so I'm going to run it in. Again, if you need to back it out more than, like I said, more than that far, just run it back in and start from square one and tighten your cable up. Okay? Safety first when you're riding an e-bike.

The rear brakes also have the same thing because they're the same product. This caliper here, we can tighten that cable up like that and then you can lock the position in with the lock nut. That's for the right one. I'm running it all the way in because we like how it is. And then, for the one on the left, it's underneath, right here. Same deal. There you go. So you can make minor adjustments. And that's also when the passenger seat is installed. You can access these pretty easily as well. Okay, there you go.

Dustin: All right, now we are going to install the fenders onto the seat. Before you put the seat onto the trike, you're going to want to install the fenders first. It's going to make it so much easier just to get it on here all in one, as opposed to putting on the seat first then the fenders. To do the installation, your fenders are going to come with the bolts in the fenders. And these are eight millimeters, so you'll need two eight millimeters, one to hold the bolt underneath and an eight-millimeter wrench for the top, or if you have some pliers to hold the nut here and tighten the eight millimeters on the top.

They come inside the fenders. I have removed them, I have them in my pocket. You also are going to have two washers. So one washer will go on the top and one washer will go on the bottom, then the nut will follow. So if you want to come in here, we'll show you. You have your brackets right here and you can simply rest your fender down here on the brackets like so. Let me just get my screw ready. So I have my screw right here. And so now the top of the bolt actually will go in through the bracket like this. So you're going to put it through like that. Oops. And just hold that with your finger. And then, from here, you're going to put on your washer like so, and then to follow with your nut. Okay. Now we have that one on, so let's put our second one on as well. Okay. All right. All right, so let's go ahead and pop that one in as well. Put on my washer. Okay.

All right. So now that they're hand tightening, these are locking nuts. Let me get my eight-millimeter right here. Okay. I have two eight-millimeter wrenches, and what you can do is put one right here on the bottom and put this one right here on the... Sorry. On the nut. And then from there, you can just begin to tighten. And you want to get this as tight... You don't have to go crazy, but you want to make sure it is as tight as you can get it. Otherwise, the fender may rattle. And when you're installing the fender, try to just hold it in the same position so it's not moving and sliding because you might scratch the top otherwise. Okay, so that's good. And we will just repeat the process on this bolt and the two other bolts right there. And then we'll show you how to install the seat on the back of the trike.

Okay, one little tip here when you are installing your fenders you want to make sure that this bolt is about in the middle of this bracket so the fender sits at the right distance over the tire. So I'm just going to loosen these a little bit. Now we can slide it. Let me lose this one a little bit more. Okay. Now, let's get that lined up right in the center. Right about there should be good. That one looks about to be in the center right there. Okay. From there, I'll tighten this down. That way, it'll sit right where we want it to over the fender. Now, the other thing I'll say, is there shouldn't be a front or a back to these fenders. So you can seat them on the brackets in either direction.

We've got four bolts here. We need to remove all four of those. And these are what's going to bolt the seat down. So to remove these, we should just be able to hand... What I'm going to do is take all these out and then just set them aside. So don't lose the nuts for these. Again, the hand loosens them all. Okay, take all these out. Okay. Now, I got all four bolts here. Now, from here, let's move on... I'm putting these in my pocket so I don't lose them. Now, from here, we're going to remove this packaging.

All right, so now we are going to install the fenders onto the seat. Before you put the seat onto the trike, you're going to want to install the fenders first. It's going to make it so much easier just to get it on here all in one, as opposed to putting on the seat first then the fenders. To do the installation, your fenders are going to come with the bolts in the fenders. And these are eight millimeters, so you'll need two eight millimeters, one to hold the bolt underneath and an eight-millimeter wrench for the top, or if you have some pliers to hold the nut here and tighten the eight millimeters on the top. They come inside the fenders. I have removed them. I have them in my pocket. You also are going to have two washers. So one washer will go on the top and one washer will go on the bottom, then the nut will follow.

So if you want to come in here close, we'll show you have your brackets right here, and you can simply rest your fender down here on the brackets like so. Let me just get my screw ready. So I have my screw right here. And so now the top of the bolt actually will go in through the bracket like this. So you're going to put it through like that. Oops. And just hold that with your finger. And then, from here, you're going to put on your washer like so. Oops. And then follow with your nut. Okay. Now we have that one on. So let's put our second one on as well. Okay. All right. All right. So let's go ahead and pop that one in as well. Put on my washer. Okay.

All right, so now that they're hand tightening, these are locking nuts. Let me get my eight-millimeter right here. Okay, I have two eight-millimeter wrenches, and what you can do is put one right here on the bottom and put this one right here on the... Sorry. On the nut. And then, from there, you can just begin to tighten. And you want to get this as tight... You don't have to go crazy, but you want to make sure it is as tight as you can get it. Otherwise, the fender may rattle. And when you're installing the fender try to just hold it in the same position so it's not moving and sliding because you might scratch the top otherwise. Okay, so that's good. And we will just repeat the process on this bolt and the two other bolts right there. And then we'll show you how to install the seat on the back of the trach.

Okay, one little tip here when you are installing your fenders you want to make sure that this bolt is about in the middle of this bracket. So the fender sits at the right distance over the tire. So I'm just going to loosen these a little bit. Now we can slide it. Let me loosen this one a little bit more. Okay, now let's get that lined up right in the center. Right about there should be good. That one looks about to be in the center right there. Okay, from there, I'll tighten this down. That way, it'll sit right where we want it to over the fender.

Now, the other thing I'll say, is there shouldn't be a front or a back to these fenders. So you can sit and seat them on the brackets in either direction.

Okay, so now the fenders are installed and we've removed the four bolts that come inside the frame to attach the seat on. And we have our four holes in the bottom. So I'm going to lift the seat, put it on top, and then match the holes up. So you're going to lift it and put that down. Okay. Now that we have that on, we're going to find the location of the holes.

So the first thing I'm going to do is take one of my bolts. I'm going to unlatch this. And once we find the first two, it'd be a lot easier to get the next two in. So I'm going to pop that at the top here. What I'm going to do is make this easier. I'm going to lift this, poke the scroll through, boom, and now it's in. So lift it a little, poke the screw in, and then you will be able to find the hole much easier. So pop it in. There we go. Now that is in. So now I'll just go ahead and latch this for a second.

And if you can see underneath here, underneath, you'll see the screw popping out. And from there, I'm going to hand tighten it in, and then I'm going to come back through and tighten it with my tools. If you have a socket, that would make this even faster. So I'm going to go ahead and use this. I think it'll be even quicker. And again, these are four very important bolts because this is what's going to keep your seat on. So really important we get these tight. Okay. [inaudible 01:08:17].

Now, after we get all four on, we're going to need to go back and re-tighten all of them.

Okay, also on the brakes, you have a lock-up here. So if you want to come in right here, this is a lock. So if you need to park your trike somewhere and don't want to roll away, you pull the lever and put that in place. It's a parking brake so the brakes will stay engaged, and then you can pop it out and you're on your way. So that's a nice little feature.

Okay, now I'm just going to take all the packaging off that we're done with all the assembly. We're not going to scratch or damage the frame anymore.

Okay, so most or all the assembly is complete. Peter showed us how to tune the gears and adjust the brakes. One thing I wanted to say about that is brakes and gears should come relatively tuned out of the box. Try some of the simple adjustments before you move into the more difficult adjustments with redoing the gears and redoing the brakes. And if at any point you don't feel comfortable, please take it to a professional to have them adjust the brakes and the gears. It's very important that the brakes and the gears work properly on this e-trike Rickshaw.

Now, in addition to that, make sure to pump your tires before you get out and ride. They will not come pre-pumped. And if you just look here on the side of the tire, it's going to tell you the PSI, which is max 30 PSI. It's located down here in the small print. You can do a minimum of five up to a maximum of 30. I like to get them pumped up pretty well. I like to keep them right around 30. It's going to roll a little bit smoother and a little bit easier.

Now, real quick also, there's going to be a manual for you to display here, but I'll show you a couple of quick things just to get you out and rolling. I'm just going to hold your power button here. Make sure also your key is in the on position here to turn the bike on, then hold the power button down. You've got your battery life, your speed, your level of pedal assist, how many miles you've gone. You've got the watt output that the motor is outputting. Now, it's a 750-watt motor, but at certain times you may exceed the 750-watt output. I've seen it go up to about 1,200-watt output, depending on the load and the hill and how hard you're working.

Real quick, one little thing I'll just show you. If you hold the up button here, that's going to turn your lights on. You can see the little light symbol come on on the display. And again, a lot of this is detailed in a manual that comes in the box with your pedals and your charger. And you would just hold that button down to disengage it as well. And you can take your pedal assist up and down. Remember, if you're stopped, always keep it at zero. And your throttle is located on your right thumb here. Just push that as little or as much as you want. And you have your gear shifter here. And that's it.

We will have more videos to follow detailing ride demos, and how to properly and safely ride the e-bike Rickshaw. But that completes our assembly. If you have any other questions at all, please email at theteam@sixthreezero.com or call us at (310) 982-2877. We'll always have someone standing by to help you. So enjoy your ride on the new e-Rickshaw and thanks again. And don't forget, it's your journey or experience. Enjoy the ride.