sixthreezero EZ Transit Folding E Trike Assembly Guide - How to Assemble Foldable Electric Tricycle

Hey everyone. Dustin here, CEO of Sixthreezero. And right here I have the Sixthreezero Easy Transit Folding Electric Trike. And today I'm going to walk you through the step-by-step process to assemble the Easy Transit Folding E-trike. Now I have taken it out of the box and laid all my parts out. I have a mat down underneath the trike here just to keep it safe and protect everything. I've removed all the packaging, and gotten it out of the box, but I've left it in the same state that it would've come out of the box to show you how everything is assembled. Now I've taken all the packaging off of the bike.

I've left some of the packaging on the fenders here. I would advise you to leave as much packaging on the bike during the assembly process as possible. That way you're going to protect the frame and other parts so they don't get scratched. In particular, be careful of your baskets and your fenders where you set those. If those should tip over, fall on the concrete or pavement or something, they're going to scratch. So you want to make sure you have those in a safe place. And again, they won't fall over or get scratched.

So this is exactly how Easy Transit is going to come out of the box. It's going to come, not folded, but locked in position and ready to ride. The rear wheels are on, the rear derailleur is on, and the calipers for the brakes are in place. And you have your front wheel off here. So I have everything set up. Also, you're going to have an additional box here. This is going to have your charger in here. This is going to have mounting pieces for the front basket. Your keys will be in here. There's a little bell for you should you choose to put that on. There's a cap for an axle nut, your pedals, and a rear reflector as well. So I've just set it all down there and as we move through the assembly, we will go part by part.

So let's go ahead and jump right into the front wheel assembly. So when you receive your trike, your handlebars will be folded down like this. You can simply lift them. And then right here you have a latch. You can go ahead and pull this latch-up, and that's going to lock your handlebars in place. And there is this mechanism here, which can be slid over this little plastic piece. This is a bracket to prevent the latch from coming down while you're riding. Okay, so now that we have that in place, let's go ahead and move to installing the front wheel.

Okay, now to install the front wheel, if you want to come in here for a closer look, this connection piece right here is going to be where the front motor attaches to. And you're going to have a piece in between the forks here. This is a plastic piece that can be removed and discarded. So we're going to go ahead and set that to the side. And now let's go ahead and grab our front wheel. Okay. So you will see in order to insert the front wheel, you've got your rotor on one side for the brakes, and you've got your connection piece here. So you're going to want this to be on the same side as the connection. And the rotor is going to slip into the calipers of the disc brake, which is right here.

Now you're going to roll. So one other thing before we move here, you may need to loosen the nut here, and pull those out because you're going to want ample room to see your fork in there. On this side, same thing. Now you have one washer on the inside on this rotor side. Leave that in, and the other ones can come off. Okay. Now you're going to place your wheel in. Lift the fork, make sure the rotor slips into the caliper, and then kind of roll the wheel. Let's see. Let's go forward a little, till the fork drops in. There you go. Now you see the fork dropped in.

Now from here, if you can see this first washer in here has a little notch. That notch slides into the opening of the fork down here, and that's going to prevent the wheel from moving. And then you move your other washer in. And now we can hand tighten this on right here. And we'll just hand tighten it as much as we can do. So that should be good. And now this is a rubber cap piece, which we are not going to put back yet because we still have to tighten down this bolt.

Now let's move to the other side and let me go ahead and show you the washer here. If you see in my hand, it has this little notch here. So that goes down and inserts right into the opening of the fork, just like that. And that makes sure the fork stays in place, and won't move. Then you put your other additional flat washer on right here. And lastly, your bolt. And we can go ahead and hand tighten that right on there. And then we'll come back with our wrench to fully tighten.

If you have a ratchet set, it's going to make this process quite a bit easier. The front axle nut is an 18-millimeter. So I'm going to go ahead and slide that on. And well actually, on this side, we can't use that. We'll use an open end. So on this side, I'm going to go ahead and place this on here and crank this down. Now you want this bolt to be tight, but you don't have to step on it or over-crank it just to the point where I can't tighten it anymore, that's good.

And so from here now we will need an open-ended wrench, an 18 millimeter. Okay. Got my 18-millimeter here. And we're just going to come in right here and tighten this bolt down. You can do both sides with the open-ended wrench. If you don't have an 18-millimeter, an adjustable wrench will work just fine. So go ahead and get that nice and tight. Once it's all tight, just go ahead and put your cap back on there. Okay?

All right. Now that that's in, we can go ahead and connect the motor. So you've got an arrow right here and you have an arrow right here. So you need to match those two up. And then you're going to push in. And then from there, you're going to tighten this connector joint like that. Now these are firmly in place, and they are not going anywhere. Let's just make that look a little bit more aesthetically pleasing. And we're all set. Our front wheel is fully installed and ready to go.

Okay, now we can put the front fender on. I usually like to mount this tab in the front of the fork here. So go ahead and put that in. Just go ahead and bend your struts like this so you can slide this in. And then once it's back there, we can go ahead and pull those down. So we have it seated in position. Now from here we need to remove our light bolt, and that's going to be an Allen key, and what looks to be a 10-millimeter. Let me go ahead and confirm that. Okay. It is. Okay. So you can put your 10-millimeter right here.

And, before inserting the fender, it probably would be easier to just go ahead and take this off, but we've already come too far. So now that is off. All right. And there are a couple of washers behind the light, and this is a threaded bolt. So let me go ahead and get this bolt out. There's one washer from the back. Going to go ahead and set that down so we don't lose it. There's only one washer. So now let's go ahead and place this in between the reflector and the fork. And we'll go ahead and start hand-tightening it just to get it started. And I'm going to switch to my... We don't need the tool. All right.

Now we'll put our washer back on the backside, put our bolt on the backside here. Oops. Okay, now it's a locking nut on the back, so I'm just going to leave it. And before we proceed with tightening all the way, I am going to get our Fender brackets installed here. So you can see right here we have our fender bolt. Let me go ahead and remove this. This is going to come pre-installed on the frame. And there's a washer. So let's go ahead and take that. And now we're just going to put that right back in. Okay.

And this is a five-millimeter Allen key for this. So go ahead and just tighten that all the way. It comes with an Allen key. We use this tool, or you can also pick up Allen's keys at your local hardware store. All right. Now on this side, you have the same thing. It's a little bit trickier because you've got the brake cable here, but not too bad. So go ahead and loosen them. Oops. All right. Now just get that in front.

Now it may take a little bit of strength, and I think it's advantageous to leave the other side a little bit loose before you tighten it down. There we go. That'll give us a little more play. Pull that over like that, feed that through, and now go ahead and hand tighten first. And let's go ahead and start tightening. All right. Now that we have that tight, we are going to want to tighten our nut bolt here for the... Okay, so I'm going to use my 10-millimeter. I have a ratcheting 10 millimeter. Put my five-millimeter in here, go ahead, and start tightening. That was loosening. Sorry. Okay.

Now you may not be able to get the wrench all the way into the backside of this fork piece, so we may need to get this as tight as possible. Yeah, now it's starting to kind of fall off because there's a little indentation on the back there. So I'm going to switch to actually tightening with my Allen key. And I have a set of ratcheting Allen keys, which also makes this step a little bit easier. If you do have someone close by to have them hold this light upright as you're tightening, that would be very helpful. Or you can put that back there, hold this with your hand, go ahead, and tighten.

Okay, now I've been assembling bikes with fenders for 20 years. And fenders, they're not always going to be perfect. If you should see it's a little bit off-center or anything, just a little bit of adjustment with your hand will do the trick. But that looks pretty good. So now we have the front fender fully installed.

Pl. Now we are going to install the pedals. And on the inside of the pedals, you're going to see an R or an L, which indicates right and left. So we'll start with our R pedal, which goes on the right-hand side. Now the key to pedals is everything tightens by spinning it forward. So that means that the left pedal is a reverse thread. So you just come in here, get that in there, and start to hand tighten as much as you can do. That's good. And now the other side, now the left pedal, keep in mind, pedals tighten twisting forward. So reverse thread. Okay, there we go.

Now this is a 15-millimeter to tighten. So let's go ahead and get our 15 millimeter out, and you're just going to insert your wrench right in here and start turning. Now you want to just make sure, you want to get this to the point where you're pushing pretty hard and you can't push anymore because you want your pedals to absolutely be tight. If these are not tight, it's possible they can pull out and strip the threads. Same here. Now go ahead and just really give it a couple of good tightens. There we go. And now your pedals are fully on and we're moving right along.

Okay. Now from here, again, a few choices, you could put your seat in. We will go ahead and do the front basket. So for the front basket, you have this hardware that comes with it, which is two bolts and a bracket, and you have your basket. Now on the frame here, on this piece right here, two bolts already come attached to the bike. So first step, let's go ahead and remove these. And you should be able to just hand loosen those. And let's just keep these in my pocket so we don't lose them. Beautiful.

Okay, now from here, the first thing I'm going to do is attach the piece right here. So this piece is going to go under your basket, and that's going to attach there. So take one of your screws, we're going to do the Allen keyhole opening facing this way. You're going to pop it through, and then tighten the screw right there. Now you're going to want the screw to be in the middle of these two pieces of the basket, so you have a lot of room to slide up and down, okay?

All right, let's go ahead and pop this one in. Now we have both of those hands tightened. I like to do hand tightening first so we don't overcommit, and you have a little bit of play when you can adjust these. So let's go ahead and put this piece on for the strut before we fully tighten it. Okay, we're going to go ahead and install this bracket. So this piece is going to, it has a little notch in it like so, that is going to go up under this bracket here and you're going to line it up with the holes here and we're going to feed our screws in through the top here to the bracket.

And then we're going to put our other one in like so. And this is just Phillips' head. Now this piece will get bent a little bit in the tightening process. That is okay. So let's go ahead and find a Phillips's head, and we'll come in right here. This is a threaded piece here, so the screws are just going to come straight through like so. Need to get this one lined up a little better here. Let's see. There we go. Perfect. Oops.

And this is a little bit big of a Phillips's head. Let me go ahead and find a smaller size here. This will do the trick. And just go ahead and tighten this all the way. Now you're going to feel that piece tight. Now we still have these loose up here, so I will come back with my 10-millimeter and my five-millimeter Allen key like so. And just go ahead and tighten this down all the way. Now you could also play around with the bend and position if you want it a little higher, wherever you like it. Okay, there we go. And we're going to need to tighten these bolts down here, which we'll get to in a second.

So I'm going to come right here. Now you can see it is nice and tight. Now you can just come down here and check these. These should be fairly pre-tightened but they do need a little bit of tightening. Go ahead and tighten those. Come around to the other side. There we go. Okay. Now it's good to go. Now a lot of people have asked me about dogs in these baskets. I don't recommend it. I'm going to say at Sixthreezero, we don't want your dogs in this basket. It's not designed for that. It's designed for about 10, 12 pounds of weight. If you have a 10-pound dog, again, I don't recommend it. It's a little bit small to put a dog in there, but if you decide to do that on your terms, then you guys can go ahead and do that.

All right, now the pedals are on, and the front basket is on. We are kind of on the home stretch here. So let's go ahead and put the seat in which this is a quick release. So it's pretty easy. You just loosen the quick release right here, and then go ahead. And in order to get this tight, make sure the clamp's down. You want to tighten this side right here. Okay, open the clamp and then tighten this side down. Then from there, you want to make sure this is going to be fairly difficult to tighten. Because you need that to be tight. Now that's your base one. So you have two actual quick releases. You have this one up here and the one on the bottom. So you can play around with that, loosen it, tighten it, whatever you see fit, and find your perfect position. Try right there. And again, tighten this right here. This is just a hand tighten, don't use a wrench, but you want this to be a little bit difficult to close. That means your seat will be tight. And then lock that in place.

Now one thing I noticed is before you start riding we're going to flip this down for the quick release and there's a bolt in here right here. This needs to be tightened before you start riding because if this is not tightened, your handlebars will move. So this is a six-millimeter Allen key. You're going to place it in here like this, and you're going to tighten this down. And again, try to get it as tight as you can without hurting too much. That's about as tight as I can get it. Now, fold your handlebars back up, clamp this in, and put your locking mechanism. Now your handlebars will turn. Okay, perfect.

All right, now let's move on to the rear fenders. I left the packaging on the rear fenders just to prevent damage. I'm going to go ahead and take off these pieces. So the fenders are attached to this cage, we'll call it, and it comes with two bolts already on here pre-installed. So I'm going to go ahead and remove those. Now if you see here, you have this attachment piece right here. So you're going to... Let me take a look at the fender so I can see. Now it looks like these can be installed on either side. So you're going to line that up like so. And from here, you're going to thread your bolt through into the threads on the fender cage. And again, you can start just by hand tightening. There we go.

If you're hand tightening and you find that you can't get the thread in or it won't go, it's most likely because the threads are crooked, or yeah, the screw's not incorrect. So if you can't get it with your fingers, try to realign. Try again. Most of the time like this you can see I can get this pretty much I all the way in here. And let's just go ahead and take this off, make sure it's lined up and looks good. Okay, it does. And from there then we will come in. This is a smaller Allen key. This is a four-millimeter Allen key. We're going to come in here and tighten this down. Now for this one, this is a little bit of a tighter fit, so you're going to need a longer Allen key. So come in like so. Like that. Okay. All right, perfectly tight. Now we're going to repeat that process on the other side and then we'll have both fenders installed.

Okay, now we're going to put on the rear light, there's a little pull tab here. You're going to want to remove that, and that will allow the light to work. You can see right here there's an on-off button, and you can turn that on in advance of night riding. And on the back here, this is pretty straightforward. There's a nut and a washer on either side. So go ahead and remove those. And you're just going to insert like so right here. And then put your nut back on. And you can use an adjustable wrench to tighten it. You can actually get it pretty tight with your fingers, but just to get it the extra way, I'm just going to use my needle nose pliers, and I'm just going to come in here and grab the bolt and just give it a little turn. And again, you could use your adjustable wrench. Good and tight.

Now we will move on to adjusting the brakes and the gears before we put the basket on to complete the assembly process. The reason we're going to do that is that in the back here, you're going to have easier access to your rear rotor and your derailleur to tune those prior. Now the brakes and the gear should come to some extent tuned from the factory. If they feel nice and tight and they feel like they work well for you, adjustment is not necessarily needed.

If you can run through all the gears, so at this point, take a test ride, don't use the motor yet if you don't have to, and just go ahead and check and see if you can go from gear one, two, three, four, five, six, seven. If you can, you don't need to move on to the next step. Also, if you're not comfortable adjusting these disc brakes because the brakes are one of the key elements to safety for your electric trike, take it to a professional, and have them just at least do the brake adjustment to ensure. So now I'm going to pass it off to Peter, and he's going to walk you through the step-by-step of the brake adjustment and the gear adjustment.

Peter: Okay guys, so before we put the basket on, we have full access to the rear disc brake and also the gears. By the way, I'm Peter here at Sixthreezero. We also will work on the front rotor. So they should be pretty good, but you can also dial them in. Before you start riding, you want to make sure that your brakes are working very nicely. You can test that before you even get on the bike by squeezing the levers and seeing if it goes anywhere if it locks up. I know it goes without saying, but it also bears repeating that it's extremely and crucially important that you get your brakes adjusted properly, that they stop you as they should, and that you also keep up with them as time goes on because the pads can wear a little bit, the cables can settle in, things like that. You got to check your brakes every time you ride, please. It's important to do and not hard to do either. Okay?

So it's pretty simple. Both of these things, if you're going to do it yourself, I'll show you how to do it pretty easily. We'll go ahead and start with the brakes. So we'll go ahead and do this rear one here. It's kind of easy to see. All right. And so this is called the rotor, the disc, okay? It's called the rotor. And then this part here that squeezes on it is called the caliper. And it's mounted to the bike by two bolts right here. We're not going to mess with those. The caliper is mounted where it is mounted and it can only be mounted.

We have two other bolts right here though that can be loosened and this will allow the caliper to be adjusted. So when I loosen these two guys, this one right here, I'm just going to loosen it a little bit. I don't think I'm even doing one full turn. I'm going to loosen this one here. There we go. That was about half a turn there. Now you can see the caliper can wiggle all around. All right? Now we can also adjust the inner pad by tightening in on this part right here. So I'm going to go ahead and tighten it in, so that's as tight as it can be. Now I'm going to go ahead and back it off a little bit.

Now usually what we can do is kind of get a self-adjustment by going ahead and pulling the rear brake lever. And then you can just secure the adjustment bolts in that position. Now it should pretty much center itself like that. It's not guaranteed, but it's usually a good way to start. It's a little bit of a hack to just kind of do these quickly and easily. And then I'll just secure that down so it's nice and tight. And right here. Okay. Yeah, they need a little bit more tightness there.

And then what we're looking for is that when we spin the wheels the rotor clears the pads, and then also that it has a nice feel here up at the lever. At the lever, you want tightness so that you start to get resistance about halfway through the pull, and then you should not be able to hit the grip ever. So I'm pulling as hard as I can. I can squeeze it all the way to the grip, so it's a little bit on the loose side. We will want a little bit tighter than that. But let's also check for the rotor clearance now that we made our adjustment.

You see how quick that was. That's the quick way to do it. There's another way that is often needed as well. So what I'm going to do, I'm just going to pull it up and go ahead and pedal it. So I can hear my sound that it's rubbing just a little bit. So in that case it's okay if it rubs a little bit because the pads will kind of settle in with the rotor. But you can also make a more precise adjustment by loosening these two guys again. And then you can hold a white piece of paper or something behind the caliper, and you can look for the clearance of the rotor passing through the pads. And it should be very slight. It's not something we're going to be able to capture on camera, but you can just loosen these two adjustment bolts, and then maneuver the caliper so you get a little bit of daylight on either side of the rotor. And then you know you have it perfectly adjusted.

So now like I said, it feels to me like it could be a little bit tighter. I'm not sure, because I can see when I look down here, there's not a whole lot of clearance, but we can tighten up on the brake just a little bit here by tightening up on the cable right here. And then what you do is you will loosen the cable pinch bolt right here, and then take some of the slack out of the cable just a little bit to tighten up and make this a little closer. You also have the option of adjusting that inner pad with this part here. Also, all this is a five millimeter Allen wrench by the way. So you can tighten that or loosen it a little bit.

There are also what we call barrel adjusters right here. And now these guys should not be abused. These are good for making little tiny adjustments, but they're really for very minimal adjustments. So the barrel adjuster, what happens is when you back it out like this, I'm going counterclockwise in the loosening motion, and it's coming out this way. So it's pulling against the cable housing, it's effectively making the cable tighter. And then you can lock your position like that with the lock nut.

Now sometimes people get a little lazy. Instead of adjusting their brakes, they'll back this barrel adjuster all the way out. It's under a lot of pressure with this cable right here. I would say that even that far is too far out. You can see there's a little bit of thread left over right here at the bottom. But I would not back your barrel adjusters out that much. If they need to be tightened more, I would go all the way back in, start from the beginning, and take more slack out of the cable. But there's also a barrel adjuster up at the lever. And the same thing, it can be used as well to give a little bit of tightening right here. See if we can catch this, Lisa, right here.

This barrel adjuster is right here. And that can also go counterclockwise with that one to tighten the cable a bit. But again, we don't want that to go out very far. I would say not more than, I mean maybe a quarter inch at the most. You just want to use that for very little adjustments there. That feels nice. That feels good right there. So it starts to kind of stop me about halfway toward the grip. Okay, cool. The front brake is the same. This one feels great.

Oh, by the way, these brakes also have a parking feature. So you can pull the brakes closed like this and then pull these tabs like that, and it will lock the brakes in place. Now you have a parking brake in case you're on a slope. Okay, that's cool. And then you can just release them by pulling back on the brakes. So the way you engage those is, pull the brakes closed in the braking position, and then pull these guys, these little tabs herein, and it will hold the levers closed. And then pull them back to release.

Okay, let's adjust the front caliper. So the same procedure. Again right here, these two are mounting bolts. We'll never touch those. That just holds the caliper exactly where it's supposed to be. So we just want those nice and tight, like they came from the factory. But then over here we have the adjustment bolts. So we can loosen these guys a little bit if you want to. This one came very nicely adjusted from the factory. Yours should too because it's very difficult. Well, it's not... Let's see. Yeah, it's pretty difficult to access the pad adjustment on the inside of this one. Well, yeah, you really can't get to it with the motor there.

So anyway, same thing. We're kind of loosened this. That means that the caliper is loose and free to move around. This bottom one could be a little bit looser. There we go, wiggling back and forth. I'm going to pull the lever in the closed position like that, it'll center itself, and then we'll go ahead and tighten these guys back down so that it'll hold its position. That's all there is to it. Unless like I said, if you need to get a little more precise, you can sight through the caliper and look at how close the rotor is to the pads. And you're looking for daylight on both sides of the rotor, and just a little sliver of it, but that's usually not necessary. But you can just do that too by using these adjustment bolts, loosening them, and then moving the caliper as needed so that the pads are equidistant on both sides from the rotor.

Okay, this one's just a little bit loose to my liking. I'm going to tighten it just a little bit right here. Again, this is with my barrel adjusters running all the way in. I'll tighten it up just a little bit. And then re-tighten the pinch bolt to hold the cable. And then I'm going to give that an extra squeeze. You want these to be very secure because you don't want the cable slipping out anyway. And then we'll go up here. Oh, that feels nice. Right there, again stopping about midway to the handlebar.

And then we can pick this up and we can see if it's hitting the rotor. Yep, that one's dragging a bit. So I would want to go back and adjust the pads a little bit. Maybe actually even just loosening it just a little bit will probably do the trick. So I'll go back here again, and let a little bit of slack out. There we go. And just find that nice balance between too tight and too loose for the clearance of the rotor. Still feels it's a little loose on this side, but should have more clearance on the rotor. It needs to be centered a little bit more.

So this one wants a little bit more adjustment. As I said, you can go ahead and loosen the two adjustment bolts a little bit, and then you're going to need to just manually maneuver the caliper so the pads are centered around the rotor, and there's a little bit of daylight between the pads and the rotor on both sides. Okay. It'll take a little bit of fiddling with, and it's something we can't catch on camera, but it does help to put a white sheet of paper behind the caliper so you can sight down there and see how much room there is between the caliper and the rotor.

All right, let's move on to the gears. All right. So what I'm going to do, I'm going to do a little trick. So it's easiest if you do the gears by being able to move the pedals with your hands. So that means that we want the drive wheel to be elevated. I found the easiest way to do this, I just have the box actually that came with the bike, and then I'm going to rest the tricycle, the fender holder right there on that box, so it's kind of angled up like this.

Okay, so now I'm going to hold the bike while I'm pedaling it. But now we can pedal the bike like this. Now this is important for adjusting the gears. If you follow the steps that I'm about to give you for the gears, it will be perfect and it'll be pretty easy. If you try and muddle your way through the gears, it can take you a very, very long time, and you'll never get the result you want. There's a very specific set of steps to adjust gears. And it's really quite simple, but most people don't know how to do it, and they try to do all sorts of other things, and it gets very frustrating and you never quite get it right. So let's just do it right the first time and we can do this fast. I mean it really can be done in about 45 seconds, but we won't do it that fast here for demonstration.

So the first thing I'm going to do is I'm going to pedal the bike, and then up here at the shifter, I'm going to depress the little thumb button and put it into the highest gear, which is seven on the shifter. So now the shifter is in seventh gear. And as it happens, because the gears are adjusted pretty well, the chain is also in seventh gear. The seventh gear is the smallest one. The first gear is up here, it's the large one. That's the easy gear, first gear. Here, seventh gear, which is the fastest gear, is the little guy. All right?

Now what we do to adjust it is we need a nine-millimeter wrench and a Phillips. That's all we need to adjust the gears. So the first thing I'm going to do now that I have put the shifter in seventh gear is to detach the cable. So now the cable is loose, doesn't have to be that loose, but I just want to show you that the derailleur is not connected to the shifter anymore. They're not communicating anymore. So what we want to do now is make sure that the derailleur is exactly positioned for seventh gear since our shifter's in seventh gear. There are two screws here, one above and one below. The one above is the high set screw, the high limit screw, and the one below is the low limit screw. So we'll be using the one on the top here. And they're marked H and L, by the way, in case you get confused.

So the top one is H, that's the high limit. So this will help us to adjust the high gear. So if I turn it in, if I screw this one in while I'm pedaling, it's going to move the derailleur in. It can move it in so far that you can see it will shift into sixth gear. See that? So just by turning that screw, the high limit screw, I pushed the derailleur inwards so far that it went into sixth gear. So what we want to do of course is back it back out, and I'm just going to be listening to it. It's going to start making some chattering noise and it's going to fall right into seventh. And just when it gets silent, it'll be in the perfect spot. So here I am loosening it back down. So it'll come in seventh. It's making some noise. Now it's in seventh. I can hear just a little bit of chatter still. It's starting to fall on me. And then, I'm just going to loosen it a little bit more.

So at this point, the seventh gear is perfectly adjusted. And now what we'll do is reattach the cable that the shifter's in seventh gear and so is the chain. It's kind of a funny little setup I have here, but it works for the moment. So now generally also we're going to need to use the barrel adjuster here later on because it's very hard to get the cable completely tight. You can see there's a little bit of slack here, so I'm going to try and pull that as tight as I can. Yeah, here. Take as much slack out as I can. I won't be able to get all of it, but I'll show you what to do about that. Then I'm going to tighten down the pinch nut here. Very nice.

Okay, so now what I'm going to do now that I've reattached the cable is I'm going to go up the gears one at a time. So it's in seventh right now. And on the shifter, I'm going to go into sixth. There's sixth gear. Now see, it's not going. The reason why is that I wasn't able to take all the slack out of the cable. So here I'm going to keep turning, and then, I'll try not to get in the camera's way, I'm going to back out the barrel adjuster. It's going to tighten the cable. And then it's going to go right into sixth gear. There it is. Perfect. Okay, so you can see I can go to seventh and now to sixth. And now let's try the fifth. Perfect. Fourth, and third, it's a little sluggish. I'm going to back this out just to give a little more tension to the cable. Second gear, first gear right there. Boom.

Now you generally don't have to touch the low limit screw, but if your chain is going too far, or it won't go into first gear, then you may have to adjust the low limit screw. But anyway, there you go. That's how you do it. I'm going to punch it back down, just make sure it works on the way down. There we go. Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one. There we go. And then all the way back down. No problem. So there you go. If you do the steps properly, it's quite easy to do, and it's best if you can do it while you're operating the pedals by hand. I've done videos where you do it with a bike that can't be lifted or put onto a bike stand because a lot of people don't have bike stands or they can't lift the bike for some other reason. It can be done, it's just a slower process. So if possible, definitely hold it up and then let the drive wheel go like this. So there you go. There are the brakes and the gears for you.

Dustin: Okay, now that Peter has explained the gears and the brakes, we're going to move on to one of the final steps here, which is putting on the rear basket. So you can see here there's going to be a bracket on either side, and the four bolts to attach the basket already come on. So you're going to want to remove all four of these bolts and remove the bracket. And then once you have that complete, we will be ready to install the basket.

Okay, now I have my two brackets removed and I have the bolts in my pocket. We're going to lift the basket, and go ahead and lift the top here. Now if you look in here, you're going to want to center your basket, and you're going to want to put the bolt below this top wire, and then it'll be below the bottom wire. And then you want to find sort of the middle point in these pieces, so the basket's in the middle. Now you're going to lay your brackets down right here. Oh, sorry, you're going to lay your brackets down right here. Okay? And right here. Now from there, you are going to mount your bolt through the mesh. You just have to find an opening. Now don't tighten it all the way, hand tighten it in. Okay? There you go.

And again, you want to be able to hand tighten. So if it's not hand tightening, just try to work it in there to the point where you can hand tighten. Now those two are in. Now let's come to this side and let's hand tighten these right here. And lastly, this one. Now from here, this is going to be your four-millimeter Allen key. I'm going to use my ratcheting Allen key just to make this a little bit faster. And you're just going to go ahead and tighten this in. So we'll just repeat that on all four bolts till these are completely tight, and then your basket will be installed.

Okay, once all the bolts are tightened, the basket will be secure. You can go ahead and close this up here, and that's in place. And now you're all set to ride. So if you want to come up here, I'll show you quickly how to get going. On the side of the battery, there is a power switch. You need to make sure that's in the on position. And then you would move your way up here to the power, and you're going to hold that down and it will come right on. From here, you have your pedal assist levels. If that is in one, that means the pedal assist is engaged. That also means the throttle is engaged. You can put that into zero. Once it's zero, nothing will happen. Now right here, you have your drive and your reverse. So drive is going to take you forward. The reverse is going to put you into reverse. So pretty self-explanatory. You want to make sure it's in drive, okay?

And now to get it back in, you have to lift this. And there we go. And we already, in the assembly process, your handlebars came folded, so that one you've seen right here. You can go ahead and fold that down and you can fold those down simultaneously. The half and fold, and then the handlebars. Make sure when you put the handlebars back, you put this plastic piece covering the latch to ensure it doesn't come undone.

Okay, just one other troubleshooting thing after you're done assembling, if the motor doesn't turn on, just a quick thing to check right here. I want to show you up on the handlebar here, you have a few connections. And you can see on this one right here, there's a little bit of red. That shouldn't be that way. So you want to make sure all of these wires are just fully plugged in. Now if everything works, don't worry about it, but this is kind of the first place to look if you ever have something not starting or not working properly. Come up there and make sure everything's plugged in. If there's something else causing the issue, reach out to us here at Sixthreezero, the team at sixthreezero.com, or call us at (310) 982-2877.

Okay, now there's one last piece. You have your keys here which will be inserted here. And if you see on the battery, there's a lock position and an open position. In order to remove your battery, it needs to be turned to the right, and we have to loosen the quick release. And from there, you can take your battery off. And actually to take the battery off, turn the key to the left, and the battery will come off. And then put it on, turn it to the right, now it's locked back in position. Don't need to leave these keys in here, keep them with you on your rides. Let me go ahead and tighten the seat back down.

Okay. Now we got that back in position. Now there's this extra plastic cap that comes in the box of the chargers and pedals that is just for decoration to be installed on the front axle nut right here on the opposite side of where the motor attaches. So it just goes there, makes it look pretty. And from there, we can power on, mount. Also, if you find your display to be a little bit loose, no big deal, you can just come in here with a Phillips head. Go ahead and show you that quickly. Just got two screws here. To find the position you like, come in with your Phillips's head right here and just tighten those down so it doesn't go anywhere. There we go. Beautiful.

Okay, now we can go for a little ride. We will make some other videos detailing more about the display and some other uses and other things such as how to use the display, braking. But that pretty much concludes the assembly, and we're off for a ride. Thanks for reading. Enjoy your Sixthreezero.